This recipe features my all-time favorite green: Toscano kale–also known as Cavolo Nero (or dinosaur kale, black kale or Tuscan cabbage). This pesto can be used in many different ways–a few of my favorites are spread over flatbread; mixed with a little ricotta or soft, homemade cheese and tossed with pasta; or thinned with a little olive oil and used as a sauce for poultry.
The first version of this that I made had anchovies in it, which I absolutely love, and I often throw in a few anyway. Unfortunately, it seems that not many people share my passion for anchovies, so I’ve left them out. If you appreciate gastronomic nirvana like I do, add 3-4 fillets during the final puree to add flavor and depth.
Kale and Spring Onion Pesto
Make it vegan: Use 1/4 c. nutritional yeast or more nuts in place of the Parmesan.
Make it nut-free: Use extra Parmesan or nutritional yeast.
For those of us who participate in a weekly herd share, the problem of leftover milk sometimes arises. In my two person household, we often have weeks where our half gallon goat’s milk immediate disappears into cereal bowls, homemade ice cream or even cocktails and our half gallon of cow’s milk is consumed by the tumbler-full and splashed into coffee and it’s all gone by Sunday. Other weeks I get to Tuesday night and wonder what on earth we’re going to do with what we have left before we get more at the market the next day.
My solution has been to make cheese. Before I’d tried my hand at it, I thought the process of cheesemaking sounded incredibly scientific and daunting. The good news is, it doesn’t have to be. The three recipes below won’t compete with some of the beautiful cheeses you’ll find at our farmer’s market, but if you’re looking for something simple, delicious and easy, the following options are good ones.
Spreadable Cow’s Milk Cheese
Pour the mixture into a sieve lined with cheesecloth or a very thin kitchen towel and rinse with a little bit of cold water (this removes any “lemony” traces). Tie the cloth into a tight bundle. Using a piece of string, hang the bundle over your sink or a bowl and allow to drain for 30 minutes. Gently shape the bundle into a disk, wrap loosely in a clean kitchen towel and place between two large plates with a weight on top (I use a large jar of canned tomatoes or bottle of olive oil–whatever is in my pantry). Allow to stand for 1.5 hours, or until firm, but not crumbly. Slice into cubes and add to curry or–my favorite–saag paneer.
I spent one of my college summer breaks working in an Indian restaurant. Despite it’s many downsides (no air conditioning in the restaurant, for one), a definite perk of the job was that I received a meal after every shift–a vegetable curry and rice or naan bread. I got addicted to the combination of curry and cauliflower that summer, and every year when the weather starts to warm up, I start to crave it.
I make a vegetable curry which also uses cauliflower, but after a winter of stews and soups, I like to mix things up a little. This meal is a bit lighter and is perfect for a warm spring evening.
Curried Cauliflower Steaks with Parsley Salad
Cook the steaks for 3-4 minutes on each side, until browned and caramelized all over. Be sure to turn the pieces over quite gently so that the steaks don’t break apart. Season lightly with salt and serve with a large handful of roughly torn parsley. Garnish with the sliced chili and another drizzle of olive oil, if desired.
This flavorful ragu is a great celebratory meal as it is cozy and comforting but also feels special. I recently made it for a friend’s birthday party where we ate bowls of it with a roasted Romaine salad and big glasses of red wine. This recipe is not difficult, but does require long, slow cooking, so it’s best made on a lazy weekend when you don’t mind putzing around the kitchen a little.
The lamb is braised before it is added to the sauce. This may be done a day in advance to break up the time commitment. Before cooking, let the lamb shanks sit out at room temperature for 1-2 hours. Cold meat retains moisture, which will prevent you from achieving a good sear that is essential for moist, flavorful meat.
Because of the long cooking time I reserve this meal for larger dinners. If you are serving fewer people, the recipe is easily halved.
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.
Carefully pat the lamb shanks dry with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Sprinkle a large cutting board generously with salt and freshly ground pepper. Rub the lamb shanks on the board on both sides so that they are crusted with salt and pepper.
In a Dutch oven or other heavy, lidded, oven-safe pot, brown the sausage or fry the bacon over medium heat. With a slotted spoon, remove sausage or bacon and set aside. Raise the heat to medium high. If the pan looks a little dry, add a tablespoon or two of oil and heat until shimmering. In two batches, brown the lamb shanks well on both sides, about 5 minutes per side. Arrange the lamb shanks in a single layer in the pan, and add the wine and enough stock to almost cover the shanks. Bring the liquid to a simmer and cook for 20 minutes, covered, then place in the oven (still covered) to braise for 1.5 hours. When the lamb is cooked, it should be falling off the bone.
Remove the lamb shanks from the pot and set aside to cool until you can handle them with your bare hands. When the meat has cooled, remove the bones and shred it between two forks or using your hands. Meanwhile, put the pan back on the stovetop and reduce the wine and broth mixture over medium-high heat until you have approximately one cup of liquid.
Into a clean pot, add the garlic and 2 T. of oil while the pot is still cold (this helps to prevent burning the garlic). Cook over medium-low heat until the garlic is fragrant, then add the onion, carrot, celery, oregano and red pepper flake. Saute until the onion is soft and translucent, about 15 minutes. Strain the reduced wine/broth liquid and add to the pot along with the crushed tomatoes. Stir to combine and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to low and allow to simmer for 30 minutes (up to 45 minutes).
Next, stir in the tomato paste and remaining 1/2 cup of wine and return to a gentle simmer for 10 minutes. Fold in the lamb meat and cooked sausage or bacon and heat for 10 more minutes or until the meat is hot. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.
Cook your pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Before draining, reserve 2 c. of the pasta water. Drain the pasta and immediately add it to the ragu. Gently toss the pasta and sauce together, thinning with the pasta water as needed. This sauce is meant to be quite hearty, but adjust to your liking.
Serve with freshly grated Parmesan or chopped, flat leaf parsley.
Serves 8 very generously.
Make it gluten-free: Serve with gluten-free pasta or over quinoa.
Make it alcohol-free: While the alcohol in the wine will cook out, if you prefer not to use wine, just use an equivalent amount of a richly flavored stock in its place.